Tuesday, June 27, 2006

surf session and the "hit the rock" wave

around 6´ real
in this photo to your left, is the big rock place (check the bowl)
the wave behind was "too big" that breaks to right (this is a left pointbreak)

in this one, due to the position of the photographer, you cant see all the wave size and the complete drop..(the "kind of wave" that you see in front of the drop, was about 60 meters distance from the wave behind yes, I d obtained the photos..this is the wave. The photos are shooted from a distance about 250 to 300 meters (around 275 -325 yards) at least, may be more
its difficult in this shot , due to the digital lens approximation, to see the "ground" the "court", the "field", but the big rock is just there to your left, so I need the space (imagine that after the drop, and to surf about 15 meters or so, I carry some speed) that the guy in front of me "stolen", so I "losted" too much speed and there was no place to insert through...
see that I "straight" the direction (its all in 3 seconds, cause the speed) of the board to dont hit the other guy and I was smashed that rock

Saturday, June 24, 2006


so, this band is quiet now, but usually Im the comp. and guitar player.

Friday, June 16, 2006


tail perspective
the outline and deck from a tail view
here you see the 4 channels ; the FOAM/FIBER rear fin; the set up config.

Saturday, June 10, 2006

Bonzer shortboard

Bonzer 5´10´´ x 19 1/2" (2.5 down) x 2 1/2" (máx.) FOAM/FIBER rear fin
shape: bonzer shortboard with tail area and volume. 60/40 semifull rails. bottom flat to concave to bonzer channels. deck slightly domed. low entry rocker more on tail.
glass: 2 4oz Aerialite cloth in the deck. 1 bottom. "speed finish" both sides. resin kind of "acid splash" abstract. red paint on top. resin pinline (white)

Wednesday, June 07, 2006

rock on!

...today I had a great surfing day.
...6´ solid waves in a pointbreak with off shore first, then glassy conditions.
...I d riding very good ones; larger drops, powerfuls bottom turns, 4 or 5 snapbacks per wave; all in my Bonzer 5´ 10´´. But unfortunately, I hit a rock, a big one and now Im in bed with too much pain ( I dont know if Im with a fracture) and I m only stand up (very slowly) to go to a Super and to cook something.
I saved the Bonzer (board) from the smash, but not my new (today was the second day of use..) 4/3mm winter wetsuit. that now sports a couple of cuts.

Sunday, June 04, 2006

petrified art

petrified tube riding
situated in my fireplace...

Friday, June 02, 2006

waiting for the board

9´´ fin with floral fabric inlay